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She first became interested in this work in 2001, when she visited the Walters Art Museum in Baltimore and saw some statue busts from the Greek and Roman collections.[3][4] Stephens said,I had never seen the back of a Roman statue before they are usually placed high on shelves/pedestal[s] with the backs tight up against a wall. As I circled the portraits I saw the logic of the hairstyles and determined to try some at home.[3]But she found that scholars mainly believed that the hairstyles were wigs.[1] Believing otherwise, Stephens set out to do her own research.[1] In 2005, while studying translations of Roman literature, she realized the Latin term "acus", which has several meanings including a "single prong hairpin" or "needle and thread," was being mistranslated as "single prong hairpin" in the context of ancient Roman hairdressing.[1] While single prong hairpins could not have held up the elaborate hairstyles of ancient Rome, a needle and thread could.[1]In 2008 she published this theory as "Ancient Roman Hairdressing: On (hair extensions) pins and needles" in the Journal of Roman Archaeology, Vol. 21.[5][1] In 2012 her video Julia Domna: Forensic Hairdressing was presented at the Archaeological Institute of America's annual meeting in Philadelphia.[6] In 2013 she became the first to recreate the hairstyle of the Roman vestal virgins on a modern person.[7][1]..
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